Greetings from the edge: Great trips drenched in nature

By Gene Sloan, USA TODAY Best experience: Within moments of arriving at Lapa Rios, an eco-lodge on Costa Rica's Osa Peninsula, I knew I had picked the right place. "Monkeys," my kids shouted as they scrambled in pursuit down the steep path to the resort's 16 bungalows. "Over there, in the trees!" USA TODAY reporter Gene Sloan rappels down a narrow river canyon near Mont-Sainte-Anne in Quebec. By Marc Tremblay

In fact, the little critters were everywhere — bounding around the tropical rain forest that engulfs the upscale retreat like they owned the place. Which, in effect, they do. Within days, we saw all four Costa Rican species, including the famed howler, which roared us awake each morning.

Set in a 1,000-acre private reserve on cliffs overlooking the sea, remote Lapa Rios is a wildlife lover's paradise that blends seamlessly into the environment.

Each of the stand-alone thatched-roof bungalows nestles into the forest; trails go on for miles. In short, it's a magical escape that enthralled my three outdoorsy little girls, who are still talking about those coatis, agoutis, three-toed sloths, green iguanas and other strange creatures.

Costa Rica's heyday as an eco-tourism destination has come and gone as the once-unspoiled country turns increasingly to mass tourism. But the off-the-beaten-path Osa Peninsula, tucked near the border with Panama, still offers a taste of what Costa Rica used to be.

Just the sight of my wife and kids wearing helmets, wetsuits and climbing harnesses was worth the price. And the experience itself was a hoot, as Tremblay belayed us down a roaring waterfall (one of three that descend more than 200 feet in quick succession). Nothing like that to get your heart pounding.

Most memorable lodging: Tucked into the hills above Costa Rica's Central Valley, the 13-suite Finca Rosa Blanca Country Inn (rooms $215-$320) is a swirling, Gaudi-esque fantasy just 15 minutes from the San Jose airport.

The cozy bed-and-breakfast — perfect for that first or last day in the country — boasts spacious rooms, 10 acres of grounds and scrumptious, four-course dinners.

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