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NORTHERN PLAINS

Costa Rica’s northern plains offer visitors an incredible variety of landscape and vista. From protected primary rainforest to vast plains, to winding rivers and windswept Lake Arenal, there are seemingly limitless choices on how to feel at one with nature. One particular aspect of this region is its striking topographical contrasts. Two mountain ranges, Tiliran and Guanacaste, create part of the country’s continental divide, before falling away into the Guatuso, San Carlos and Tortuguero Plains.

Along with protected forest, the rich landscape supports a large variety of agriculture, including citrus, sugar cane and rice. The region extends up to the Nicaraguan border, and the rivers that zigzag through the plains are often flooded during the rainy season, creating marshlands densely populated with a staggeringly large winged population. Of the 850 bird species identified in Costa Rica, 600 permanently reside in this region, and a good day of birding might include dozens of sightings. It’s no wonder that planeloads of serious bird watchers visit the region annually!

ARENAL

The largest inland body of water in Costa Rica, Lake Arenal vies with others the world over for a spectacular setting. The surrounding slopes are covered with densely green forests, as well as sleek windmills that dot the hills, taking advantage of the Trade Winds that sweep in from the east.

Gales have been clocked up to 45 miles per hour, and only about 5 locations in the world have all the specific elements that create such a prime windsurfing destination. A variety of hotels and cabins have opened in the area, with a range of prices and accommodations. Many offer both equipment and transportation for those interested in trying their hand at the sport.

For peak wind seasons, visit the lake between November and April, but the rainy months bring milder conditions that make Arenal a perfect spot for beginners.

Sport fishing is another activity available to those looking to spend time on the lake. A favorite spot for local residents, visiting anglers can also enjoy the challenge rainbow bass can provide. As with deep-sea fishing, Costa Rican law supports a catch and release policy, so it’s important to put back any more than you can eat. Local companies are also offering sunset cruises and sea kayaking as further choices for enjoying these waters that offer up mirror smoothness on the lake’s eastern shores, and white caped excitement to the west. Visitors interested in heading west to the famous Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve can also find transportation across the lake and be met by a waiting four-wheel drive vehicle or horse caravan.
Numerous rivers run like lifelines through the surrounding landscape, rivers that at one time were the major source of transportation in the area.

Sunset tours offers a safari raft float down the Rio Penas Blancas, one of the small rivers that connects with the Rio San Carlos and finally the Rio San Juan and the Caribbean Sea. Visitors float quietly down the river with a naturalist guide pointing out local fauna and flora, including howler monkeys and numerous bird species. What sets this trip apart is the mid-river stop at a tiny finca—or farm—deep in the interior. Here there’s a chance to meet the charming Don Pedro, an octogenarian who has spent the majority of his life on this mostly self-sufficient piece of land that connects with primary forest, and to obtain a glimpse into the beautiful, yet difficult life on the river.

A visit to this zone will almost always include a stop at Arenal Volcano. Until the late 1960’s, local people called this imposing giant Cerro Arenal, as there was very little to indicate that under the tree covered slopes lay the sleeping power of a volcano. But all that changed in 1968, when after a series of earthquakes the volcano blew, sending shock waves that were recorded as far away as the western United States. Now, with its flawlessly conical silhouette, Arenal Volcano is one of the most active in the world.

Most awe-inspiring at night, many local hotels offer excellent views of the eruptions and lava flows. Tour operators also can easily arrange evening excursions to the Arenal National Park, but due to its position between the Pacific and Caribbean slopes, the peak is often shrouded by clouds, and what visitors experience is the volcano’s terrible roar—which of course is exciting on its own! Within perfect viewing distance from the volcano lies the Tabacon Hot Springs, formed by a hot avalanche deposit decades ago. A resort has formed around the thermal mineral-rich waters, where visitors can relax after a long day of hiking or other activities. The water emerges from the earth at nearly 150 degrees Fahrenheit, but then cools to the low 100s as it tumbles down the slopes. Several natural pools with waterfalls make for a luxurious treat. Cool water pools are also available, and one should take local advice and alternate between the two. For those who are looking for more activity, or at least who would rather work their muscles before submersing them in the healing waters, there are extensive trails around the volcano, as well as the exhilarating experience of the original canopy tour.

There, equipped with the highest quality harnesses and rope systems, you can take in the view of a world not usually seen from the ground. Trees filled with bromeliads, orchids and other epiphytes, as well as the chattering of birds surround you. There’s an opportunity to ponder the view, then you glide through the canopy to an awaiting tree. On some platforms you rappel down to a lower level before continuing on to another tree. At every platform there is an experienced guide to lead you through the process safely, so from start to finish it’s an adventure to remember.

LA FORTUNA

The hub of many of the areas activities, the small picturesque town of La Fortuna is also only about 15 minutes drive from the volcano. Not only will visitors find this an excellent departure point for many day trips, they will also find an extensive range of small hotels and eateries. Most of the area’s businesses are locally owned, and people are very proud to share their region with visitors.

Among the many tours available in the area include the Fortuna Waterfalls. These 230- foot high falls are usually reached by horseback, then a short, but demanding hike down to the bottom pools where one can enjoy the cool spray while picnicking before the return trip. Swimming is only recommended further down stream in the sandy beach, the current directly under the waterfall is dangerously strong. The other hikes include the Cerro Chato, a dormant “brother” volcano to Arenal where rain forests open onto a water-filled crater. Trails here can also lead to beautiful waterfalls, making for a longer day hike. This hike is recommended only for people in good condition, but it is worth the effort.

SARAPIQUI

One of the many rivers that run like a venal system throughout this region is Rio Sarapiqui. In addition to class III and IV white water rafting, the river has quiet sections where float safaris provide visitors with intensely close wildlife viewing opportunities. The region also offers some of the country’s most premier private land reserves, that in some cases link with national parks such as Braulio Carrillo, creating biological corridors linking the heights of Volcan Barva to the tropical lowlands. The large territorial needs for mammals such as jaguar and puma are met, while protecting an increasing percentage of important tropical habitats.

One of the most internationally renowned of these private reserves is La Selva Biological Station. The land of this research center, owned and operated by the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS)—a non-profit consortium of universities and institutions in the Latin America, the United States and Australia—is a UNESCO biosphere reserve along with the Braulio Carrillo National Park with which it borders. Devoted to education, research and preservation, La Selva can be visited for either day or overnight trips, and the incredible natural diversity found within the reserve definitely warrants the stay. More than 400 bird species either live or migrate into La Selva’s 3,739 protected acres, as well as numerous reptiles, amphibians and mammals, including 5 of the 6 cat species found in Costa Rica. That isn’t even beginning to count the amazing variety of plant life! Literature from La Selva states that about 100 species of trees are found in a typical square hectare of their old-growth forest, compared with about a tenth of that amount in a temperate forest. Excellently trained guides lead hikes along the 35 miles of trails within the reserve, allowing visitors to explore life in the tropical rainforest. The educational programs underway in this preeminent research center are not only for students and professionals in the field of biology. Government and business leaders are offered courses in tropical ecology in order understand the importance of sound environmental practices.

Sarapiqui’s strong regional sense of conservation is evident in the area’s many private reserves and collectives, some of which place as much importance on the cultural significance of their locale as the biological. From sustainable agriculture creating beauty products using native medicinal herbs, to ecolodges using sustainable technologies, Sarapiqui is an area of Costa Rica that has the gift of rainforest ecology, the tradition of conservation, and an understanding of the small-scale tourism that can be the future of the country.

CANO NEGRO WILDLIFE REFUGE

Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge is comprised of the Rio Frio and Cano Negro Lake. The water level in this area grows and shrinks seasonally, allowing for further travel into the marshy landscape during the rainy season. Only 6 kilometers from the Nicaraguan border, this wildlife refuge is a naturalist’ s paradise, especially for birders. In fact, the refuge was created to protect the diverse population of aquatic birds that live and breed in the area. On a boat trip down this river visitors can easily view over 30 of the nearly 100 species of birds found in the area, including the rare American Pygmy Kingfisher and if very lucky, the endangered Jabiru stork.

It is also possible to spot 3 of the 4 species of monkeys found in Costa Rica, two and three-toed sloths, caimans, turtles and emerald basilisk lizards. Due to the variable water levels, this tour usually begins with a 2-hour drive from La Fortuna to Los Chiles, then a continuation of the trip by boat down the Rio Frio.

TRAVEL TIPS:

HOW TO GET THERE:

Head north from San Jose toward the Caribbean coast, then take the exit toward Ciudad Quesada. By heading northwest, you’ll find a variety of towns (and volcanoes) that will grab your attention on either side of the road.

CLIMATE:

The weather in this particular region tends to characterize itself with warm daytime temperatures (low to mid 80s) and relatively high humidity. There are intermittent rain showers that usually pass quickly. From late February to early May, the rains are less frequent and afford fantastic skyscapes during sunrise and sunset.

WHAT TO BRING:

Necessary travel equipment for this region is simple. If you’re visiting during the rainy season, keep rain gear handy and wear comfortable shoes.
Binoculars are mandatory when in the area since birdwatching is excellent.

PLACES TO GO:

Cano Negro Wildlife Refuge
Remote lagoon and wetland system with birds and other wild animals.
Arenal Volcano An active volcano with beautiful Lake Arenal in the background.

Lake Arenal
Surrounded by a patchwork of farmland, forest and an active volcano. Excellent for windsurfing.

Tabacon Hot Springs
Open-air natural hot springs. Waterfalls and pools are all fed by thermal waters.

La Selva Biological Research Station
A private reserve that has long been the sight of tropical scientific investigations. La Selva offers informative tours and excellent birdwatching.

Honeymoon Lapa Rios

Conde Nast Gold List 2004

2003 Conde Nast Top 10 Hotel in Latin America.

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Lapa Rios
Telephone 011- 506 - 2735-5130 or 011 - 506 - 2735-5281
Fax in Costa Rica 011- 506 - 2735-5179
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